from a foreign correspondant

Madeira, Portugal 18 - 21 November

SW

A short trip with some dodgy weather...

The pool OK, so not exactly wild swimming but then the whole island appears as one giant suburb (albeit with stunning scenery and tropical plants) so maybe its quite appropriate. An amazing pool, breathtaking views, open 24 hours, and almost always quiet during our visit. After a 13 hour flight (best not to ask) the sight of this pool really helped my mental state. 

With the combination of stormy weather and few accessible beaches, it proved invaluable. And it was a few degrees cooler than the sea.

Rock pools Seeing 'natural swimming pools' marked on the map helped set the first days itinerary. Most land plunges in massive black cliffs down to the sea, giving very few swimming opportunities - except off jetties and harbour walls. Jetties etc fine in calm and clear weather but we picked a stormy and changeable week. The first natural pool we came across was in the village of Sexial on the north coast. A huge tidal pool had been made from the back of the harbour, some rocky outcrops and many tons of concrete. Unfortunately the storms had washed in loads of debris and litter but the narrow outlet was letting none of it go. It resembled the great pacific garbage patch and was entirely un-enticing. Feeling somewhat disheartened we continued west to the next marked set of pools at Porto Moniz. Circumnavigating the new bypasses, roundabouts, esplanades and suburbs I peered over the smart new esplanade with trepidation. Bingo! Below was set out an immaculate collection of deep blue pools separated by craggy black volcanic outcrops with the sea crashing furiously just beyond, out of harms way.

A few people were wandering about but no one was in the water. Being a natural coward, this made me a little nervous but I was also hot and desperate. The water was extremely salty, crystal clear and obscenely warm (over 24deg). 

All the pools were interconnected to form a labyrinth for exploration. And with goggles and many deep breaths, I explored every single crevice and dark corner. Many fish, some of beautiful bright colours, were trapped in the pools and added to the sense of wonder. Although a tame experience in a semi man-made environment, it was a wonderful swim, serene almost in its stillness and contrast to the crushing sea only a few feet away.

Calheta beach The next swim was at Calheta on the south west of the island. Here, imported white sand has been used to make the only sandy beach on Madeira. A man made harbour protects the beach and created a large pool of calm water. The weather had settled and in this relatively sheltered spot, the sea was gentle. However, it all made for a bit of a dull swim. Lifeless harbour, too warm water and overlooked by modern hotels. It felt quite divorced from nature but it was the closest I got to swimming in the open sea. The photo makes it look more attractive that the reality - the spot was dramatic but the beach itself and the swim were underwhelming.